4S Teak Spearguns Blanks
4S speargun blanks have 4 sides that are surfaced, square, and ready for you to set your measurements on and begin cutting. We select only the finest kiln-dried Burmese Teak for our blanks. We straighten and plane all of the blanks using proven woodworking techniques and double-check each blank as it progresses through our shop. We then cut the blanks to size, wrap them in plastic wrap, and send them out to you. We offer a couple of different sizes to allow you to build pretty much whatever you want.
*4S is a woodworking industry term meaning that the wood has been surfaced on all 4 sides.
You have purchased a kiln dried pre-milled speargun blank that is straight and square. By cutting or shaping the blank, you acknowledge the blank was straight, square and free of serious defect upon arrival.
About Your Speargun Blank
Wood stores tension and the blank may move (bend/warp) when material is removed from the blank. Normally shaping will not result in a noticeable amount of movement, but movement is possible.
Speargun Building Tips
The following are a few of the lessons we learned the “hard way. We strongly suggest following these techniques when setting up your new speargun.
The first thing you need to do is look at all the parts and think about all the different things that you're going to install in the gun and then begin to lay out measurements for where all of those things will sit on the finished speargun. Because the handle base, trigger, and track have been pre-milled, you will need to worry about the Line Anchor, Band Slot or Holes, and any additional hardware you wish to install.
I strongly suggest making all of your measurements while the gun is still flat and square, before you begin shaping. You will want to use the flat edges because they give you a nice place to put your lines and it's very easy to make an accurate measurements.
You will need to make marks for where you want your line anchor and where you want your band slots. Drilling the band holes or slots BEFORE you shape the gun is highly recommended because it’s easier to index the blank when it’s flat and square than after you’ve shaped it.
If using band holes, we suggest at least a three quarters of an inch between the holes.
We tend to use 2 bands for 9/32” (7mm) spearshafts. We usually use 3 bands for 5/16” (8mm) shafts.
On the enclosed track gun, the track is set 3/8 of an inch deep.
I suggest leaving at least a 16th of an inch between the bottom of the track and the top of the band slot. On the enclosed track speargun, to drill the band holes using a 5/8” drill bit we measure down 0.75 inches from the top of the gun and mark that as “center”. On an open track blank, find the center of the blank and drill your hole on the center of the blank.
We recommend cutting a band slot with a router bit that is a half an inch (1/2") in diameter for both 9/16 and 5/8 inch bands. If we are drilling band holes I tend to use a hole diameter (drill bit) that is equal to the size of the rubber.
Sand the trigger slot so you don't have to force the trigger mechanism into the stock. We use a piece of wood with some 120 grit sandpaper glued to it to sand the trigger slot.
Use steady pressure to seat the spearshaft in the trigger mechanism. Slamming the shaft into the trigger mechanism will damage your trigger mechanism and potentially, your shaft. You’ll also scare off all the fish.
SPEARGUNS ARE DANGEROUS AND CAN KILL PETS, PEOPLE AND FISH. Don’t point your speargun at anything that you don’t want to put a hole in!
DO NOT LOAD YOUR SPEARGUN OUT OF THE WATER. DO NOT SHOOT YOUR SPEARGUN OUT OF THE WATER.